Installing hexagon garage lights is a one-afternoon job for two people with a ladder, a drill and a plan. Lay it out on the floor first, mark the ceiling, mount the clips, snap the tubes together and plug it in. The planning is what separates a crisp grid from a crooked one.
Here is the full step-by-step, plus how to fix the most common problem: a section that will not light.
Tools and materials you need
- Your hex grid kit (tubes, connectors, mounting clips, power cord)
- Sturdy step ladder or two (one per person is easier)
- Drill/driver and the screws included with the kit
- Stud finder for locating ceiling joists
- Tape measure, chalk line or painter's tape, pencil
- Drywall anchors rated for the load, if clips land between joists
- Safety glasses
- A portable light for the ladder work, like a magnetic work light, since the ceiling will be dark until you finish
- A helper. Seriously.
Safety first
A plug-in grid does not require opening any electrical boxes. But if you are working near a ceiling outlet, an existing fixture or anything wired, turn off the breaker and confirm it is dead with a non-contact voltage tester. If you want the grid hardwired to a wall switch, hire a licensed electrician and follow local code. Do not cut the plug off and splice it yourself.
Also: keep the grid clear of the garage door's travel path and opener rail. Raise the door and look before you mark anything.
Step 1: Plan the layout on the floor
Open the box and lay out every tube and connector on the garage floor in the exact pattern you want on the ceiling. This is the step people skip, and it is the one that saves you.
- Count the pieces against the parts list. Missing a connector is better discovered now.
- Confirm the finished footprint with a tape measure.
- Decide where the power cord exits the grid. It should be the corner closest to your outlet.
- Take a photo of the layout. You will refer to it on the ladder.
If you haven't locked in a size yet, do it now: 5 hex for a bay or bench zone, 8 for a one-car, 14 for a full two-car. You can also sketch the grid into the Garage Builder to check how it sits relative to your storage and bench.
Step 2: Mark the ceiling
Find the center of the area you want lit, not necessarily the center of the room. Over the car, over the bench, or across both bays.
- Snap a chalk line or run painter's tape for the grid's centerline.
- Mark a perpendicular line to square it up. Measure diagonals if you want it dead square.
- Use the stud finder to locate joists and mark them.
- Transfer clip positions from your floor layout to the ceiling. Most kits place clips along the tubes, near the connectors.
Step 3: Install the mounting clips
Hex grids are light, but they still need a solid hold. Drive clip screws into joists wherever possible. Where a clip falls between joists, use drywall anchors rated for the load. Do not rely on bare screws in drywall.
Leave the clips slightly loose until all of them are in, so you have a little wiggle room to line up the tubes.
Step 4: Connect the tubes
Work outward from one corner or from the center, following your floor photo.
- Push each tube firmly into its connector until it seats fully. Half-seated pins are the number one cause of dead sections.
- Snap each tube into its clips as you go.
- Have your helper support the free end so the connectors aren't carrying the weight.
- Don't force a tube that won't line up. Back up and check the clip position.
If you went with a framed grid like the Detailing Hex Grid with Border Frame ($417.99), mount the border after the honeycomb is square.
Step 5: Power it up
Route the power cord from the grid to your outlet. Secure it to the ceiling with cord clips so it doesn't sag or hang in the door's path. Plug in and test before you tighten everything down for good.
Want a cleaner look with a wall switch? That's the electrician step. Many owners start plug-in and upgrade later.
Troubleshooting dead segments
One or more tubes dark? Work through this list with the power unplugged between checks:
- Reseat the connectors on both ends of the dark tube. Push until fully seated.
- Inspect the pins. Bent or pushed-in pins won't make contact. Gently straighten if possible.
- Swap the tube with a working one. If the problem moves with the tube, the tube is bad. If it stays put, the connector is the issue.
- Check the run. If everything past a certain point is dark, the connector feeding that section is the suspect.
- Check the power supply and outlet. Try another outlet. Make sure a GFCI outlet hasn't tripped.
- Contact support with a photo of the layout if nothing works. Don't open the tubes or power supply.
Flickering usually points to the same culprits: a loose connector or an overloaded or dimmer-controlled circuit. Hex grids that aren't rated for dimmers should not go on one.
Final checklist before you climb down
- All clips tight and screwed into joists or rated anchors.
- Every connector fully seated.
- Cord secured and out of the door's path.
- Door opened and closed fully with no contact.
- Grid square to the walls (step back and look from the door).
FAQ
How long does it take to install a hex grid?
Plan on two to four hours for a 5 or 8 hex grid with two people. A 14 hex or framed grid can take most of a day.
Can I install hex lights on a drywall ceiling?
Yes. Screw into joists wherever possible and use rated drywall anchors where clips land between them.
Do I need an electrician?
Not for a plug-in kit near an outlet. For hardwiring or adding a new outlet or switch, yes. Use a licensed electrician.
Why is one hex section not lighting?
Almost always a connector that isn't fully seated. Unplug, reseat both ends, and test again.
Still choosing a grid? Our Hex Grid Garage Light, 6500K starts from $176.99 in 5, 8 or 14 hex layouts. Shop the full garage lighting collection with free US shipping, and subscribers get 10% off their first order.
Plan it first
See this project in your garage.
Try lights, racks, walls and floor finishes in the Garage Builder, then add the whole build to your cart.
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